Annecy

A long weekend in Annecy

The train from Paris was early but highly anticipated. I needed a city break desperately and had never been to the Alps. My teeny tiny Parisian shower had laid the last straw, so I booked a hotel with an extra-large shower in a quintessential Alpine town. My weekend was saturated with views of Lac d’Annecy, swans, mesmerizing green-blue water, cobblestones, carbs, and indulgent shower space I had not known in months.

Apèro was at Le Rialto, crêpes at Aux Crêperies Bretonnes La Bolée, wine and charcuterie at the bustling bar á vin Le P’tit Cru, and daily petit dej at Brasserie des Antiquaires. Almost nothing gets me more excited than French breakfast, and the hotel-attached brasserie did not disappoint. My favorite detail were the individual rolled-up butter packets, demi-sel and doux, to pair with morning carbs. To-go options included the elegant Campagne Boulangerie Faubourg for baguette de tradition and other treats, and the many markets serving local fare for picnic-style dinner.

The highlight was a post-apèro afternoon sunset boat ride around the lake. Mountains towered over us as we were shown Château de Menthon-Saint-Bernard, which inspired the palace in Sleeping Beauty. It was a clear day, so Mont Blanc was in view. At night, the stars were like crystals and Pleiades sparkled in full view over the lake.

The medieval Vieille Ville is something out of a fairy tale, with its Venice-like waterways, hidden passages, and cobblestone streets. I spent hours meandering the tunnels that connect pedestrian-only paths and taking delight in the pastel exteriors along the Thiou river.

Complete with a life-affirming custom massage session booked with Laure Morel, Annecy was the city break I had hoped for, with the extra-large shower playing an instrumental role.